Basic Photography Terms You Should Know

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If there are 3 pillars in photography that you should know, then there are basic photography terms that you should know as well.

Here, the author cites the number as 10, so there are 10 photography terms that you should know, to help you in your SLR photography journey.

Here goes:

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10 Photography Terms You Should Know

Terminology is key to any form of photography. Know your terms and what you can do with those functions or features and your photographic world opens up to you. Terms are easy to learn. What is a challenge is to make use of what these terms describe.

Getting to grips with your terminology really frees you up to grow on your photographic journey. It may not seem necessary but join a group of avid photographers and you will soon realise your lack. So let's have a look at my top 10 terms you should know.

1. Aperture

Aperture is the size of the lens opening that determines how much light reaches the digital sensor or film in an SLR camera. It is measured in f-stops ranging from f1.2 to f32.

2. Shutter speed

How fast the shutter opens. It also determines for how long the sensor or film is exposed to the light.

3. ISO

This is the sensitivity to light of a digital sensor or the film in an SLR camera. The higher the ISO, the higher digital noise in a digital image or the grain in a film image.

4. Exposure compensation

When a camera light meter sets the exposure on a camera, it is sometimes not 100% correct. It either overexposes or underexposures. In order to correct this there is a setting called exposure compensation which allows you to change the exposure by stops of a third to half to a full stop.

5. Depth of field

This is the depth of focus of an image. When you look at an image and see the area that is in focus in front of and behind the subject it's called the depth of field. How much of it that is in focus is called either a narrow or wide depth of field. This is controlled by the size of the aperture setting. A small aperture gives a wide depth of field while a large aperture gives a narrow depth of field.

6. F-stops

These are the individual aperture sizes that help control the depth of field and regulate the amount of light that is allowed to reach the sensor or film.

7. Fill in flash

This is a very useful way of filling areas of shadow with flash especially outdoors in the full sunshine when shadows fall across a person's face.

8. Aperture priotity

When set to this setting the camera allows you to choose the aperture while it automatically chooses the correct shutter speed.

9. Shutter priority

This is opposite to the aperture priority. The camera chooses the aperture while allowing you to choose the shutter speed.

10. Rule of thirds

This is one of the basic rules of composition. Imagine a tic-tac-toe or noughts and crosses grid superimposed over the image. Where these lines intersect is where you place your focal point or subject creating a wonderfully balanced image.

Learn these ten terms and the principles, functions or  settings they represent and you will dramatically improve your photography.

Do you want to learn more about photography in a digital  world? I've just completed a brand new e-course delivered by  e-mail. Download it here for free by clicking here:  http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/. To learn how you can  take your photography from ordinary to outstanding click  here - http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/21steps.htm.


Wayne Turner has been teaching photography for 25 years and  has written three books on photography.

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Taken from Ezine article directory:
10 Photography Terms You Should Know
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Really Basics of DSLR Photography

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If you are a beginner in DSLR Photography, you'll have the dilemma of having a good piece of equipment, and not knowing how to use it. Much less, to play with it!

Not to fret; all hope is not lost.

You already have your camera. The other thing you need is a picture viewer/editor, one that has the function or capability to show the camera settings when the picture was taken. Good candidate: Picasa. Hey, this one is free; just search and download from the web.

OK, so where do we go from here?

Since we are beginners, let us crank that dial on the camera, and use and try and use and try those automatic modes. Let the camera teach you. Let the camera's computer technology guide you.

1. Set the dial to each automatic mode and take pictures.
2. Upload the pictures to your computer.
3. View each picture, and study the values that the camera set for each auto mode.

Based on those data, you may take note of what value the setting was for:

• ISO
• Aperture
• Shutter Speed
• etc.

First three are of utmost importance. if you have read a book or two, go back to the book and how it explains on the 3 settings. If you haven't read a book, now is the time to do so.

Study how the 3 settings are used, and when. Basically, analog or digital, SLRs are making use of these 3 settings the most - they are the pillars of creative photography.

Having said that, here's now what I learned:

• To control or capture motion, shutter speed priority is the main setting.
• To control or define depth of field, aperture priority is the main setting

Enjoy afterward!

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Shutter Speed: Showing the Blur or Stopping the Motion

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In my previous post I mentioned that the Aperture Setting is what we use to control and define the subject's DOF (depth-of-field), which is used mainly to make the background blur, or blur the surroundings, and keep only the main subject tack sharp.

That is most applicable when the background is distracting, and is taking away, instead of adding, to the subject being photographed.

Or, as in many wildlife photography cases, having the background surrounding just at the right degree of blurring boosts the subject matter being photographed, and brings the viewer's attention to the subject matter - and fixes it there!

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Shutter speed

Speeding cars, a cheetah's leap and bounds, a baby's quick moves shot continuously, and rendering the silky look of the water on a waterfall, or capturing a drop, and many others -- these are all done using the shutter speed setting.

As has been mentioned, the shutter speed setting is on an inverse relation with the aperture value: a fast shutter speed mandates an open wide aperture, and a slow shutter speed allows a small aperture opening.

A silky-smooth water on a waterfall requires about 2 seconds and above for the shutter kept open.

A drop of water, to be frozen in mid-air, requires a 'fast shutter speed', which is about 1/200 of a second, and above.

These are not empirical values, but are guides.

What can affect the settings?

The speed of the subject being photographed, or course. An F1 race definitely requires, as I've heard, something like 1/30,000 of a second shutter speed to 'catch' the speeding car still - and usually, only the car is sharp, and all others in the frame blur.

And this is a skill that you learn with each camera unit that you use. I would say this:
All cameras are made equal, but some cameras are more equal than others.

So which one is your camera-mate?

 

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Main use of Aperture Setting: Depth-of-Field Control

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What I have learned from all my book readings and my experiment with my camera is that the main use and function of the aperture is to control the depth of field of your shots.

Having said that, do note, however, that the correct exposure, or should I say, the desired exposure of your subject, is still dependent on 3 settings in your camera:

1. aperture value
2. shutter speed
3. ISO

ISO can be set independently, while shutter speed is an inverse function of your aperture setting: the bigger aperture opening (smaller f value), the faster you shutter speed can be, and vice-versa.

Again, this is a beginner's knowledge, but a fundamental one, -- it is but a foundation of all the other skills that you will ever learn later on.

Leave your comments - they are most welcome.

Till then!

 

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Master Composition Guide for Digital Photographers

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I have finished reading one more book on photography, and I want to give a short review. Furthermore, I want to give the points as highlighted in the book itself. This is one good book, and while the content is already very similar to many other books written about photography, I do find some points that would set apart this one book: Master Composition Guide for Digital Photographers by Ernst Wildi.

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MASTER THE TECHNIQUES YOU NEED TO COMPOSE EYE-CATCHING DIGITAL IMAGES

Good composition - or the effective arrangement of all of the visual elements that fall withing the frame of the final image - is critical to the success of any photograph. When the image elements are carefully placed, the viewer is engaged in the image; without an effective composition, the eye wanders through the frame and the intended subject may be diminished by distracting colors, shapes, or other pictorial elements. In this book, master photographer Ernst Wildi shows you how to fine-tune your photographs and ensure the most dynamic, powerful image possible. Easy-to-read text is paired with ample before-and-after photos, making it wasy to see how each technique will affect your final images.

FEATURES:

• Composition techniques for photographing landscapes, architecture, still life, people, and more
• Understanding the impact of technical consideration, like exposure, contrast, and depth of field, on composition
• Tips for selecting the right lens and focal length
• Using lines as compositional elements, with tips for placing lines effective and avoiding distracing lines
• Determining how to place your subject effectively in the frame of the image - including tips for composing images with multiple subjects
• Understanding the importance of color when designing effective photographic compositions
• Tips for evaluating each scene for attracting and distracting elements
• Composing effective panoramic images
• Using filters to improve your compositions
• Evaluating the background of your image, and tips for working with problematic background elements
• How posing affects the composition of a portrait
• Tips for post-capture image manipulation that let you fine-tune your compositions
  
  
  
  

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What I learned from this book

Aside from the usual, these are new ideas that I got from this book:

1. When shooting waterfalls, make sure that there is one, not two, waterfalls, in the frame. Two usually distracts the attention of the viewer, and the composition fails to arrest the viewer's attention.
2. When shooting waterfalls, include the top and bottom. Viewers want to know when the water is coming from, and where the water is going.
3. Change focal length to make the composition better. When a statue or a sculpture includes a background, such as a tree or anything of that sort, and it detracts from the overall 'correctness' of the composition, change lens. Compose the picture in such a way that the background will augment, at the least, not clutter, the resulting photograph.
4. There should be balance in the colors. When composing a shot, especially on landscape photographs, make sure that the light and dark areas are properly positioned. All dark at the top or all dark at the bottom makes a photograph one-sided, and will tip off and topple.
5. Use the correct focal length to signify 'size'. Change from wide angle lens to telephoto lens to signify the size of a truck against a looming mountain. Do that for all other shots that need to have the size or size relationship of the subjects in the photo emphasized.

And more!

What's your say?

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Macro Lenses and Macro Photography

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While getting a 1:1 (read, almost lifelike size) shot of a flower, a leaf, an insect, or anything for that matter is one area of photography that is so satisfying and gratifying, this trick isn't really that easy, and at times, it can be so frustrating that you would tend to give up sooner than you have begun.


Patience  is a virtue, and it is its own merit already, but applied to photography, and you can come up with those shoots that people will really admire - with no word spoken - but with just plain expressions of "oohhs" and "aahhs".


To help us out with the things in macro photography, here is an Ezine article original. Together, let us learn macro photography. Read on...


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A Beginner's Guide to Macro Photography

Macro photography is a technique which allows photographers to take close-up shots of subjects. Though it once referred exclusively to photography which rendered the subject in life-size on the negative, it has come to encompass almost all magnified photographic techniques. Macro photography differs in many ways from other types of photography: it often requires specialized equipment and it requires that the photographer make a number of special considerations when planning their shots. This brief guide will give you an overview of macro photography techniques.

Macro photography requires some specialized equipment. Most often, this includes macro lenses and extension tubes. The focal length of a macro lens determines the smallest size of the objects it can capture. Focal lengths in the range of 50-60 mm are most often used for product photography or small objects. 90-105 mm lenses are appropriate for insects and flowers. 150-200 mm lenses are most often used for small insect photography. Most of these lenses are 1:1, or 'standard' magnification.

Some macro lenses, however, can achieve up to 5:1 magnification. These are necessary for capturing detail in extremely small objects such as snowflakes and insect eyes. If you don't want to spend the money on a new macro lens, you can use a reversing ring. These rings allow lenses to be attached backwards by attaching to the filter threads on the front of a lens. This allows the lens to be used for macro photography. Oftentimes photos can be taken in up to 4:1 magnification with a reversing ring while still maintaining excellent image quality.

Extension tubes, or bellows, extend the distance between the camera lens and the film or the digital light sensor within the camera. This makes the focusing distance of the camera much shorter, allowing for higher degrees of magnification. This also has the effect of making the image darker for the same aperture settings, a fact which should not be overlooked by the photographer when they are planning their shot.

Another special consideration macro photographers must keep in mind is that the depth of field of macro photographs is very limited. This makes focusing a critical step, as the photographer must determine which element of the subject should be in central focus. Lighting is also a hurdle for new macro photographers to overcome. This is because macro photography setups often leave very little space between the lens and the subject. Telephoto macro lenses are a popular solution for this problem, as they leave considerably more space between the lens and subject. Ring flashes are another solution to this problem. As they attach to the outer edge of the lens, they require very little distance to the subject to properly light them.

Mr. Oliver is a marketing agent of David Proett Photography. The full-service professional photographer provides portraits to capture your most precious moments - weddings, family, baby, and special events large or small. David Proett Photography serves the Richmond Virginia area but will also travel. For more information on their Wedding Photographer Richmond, Virginia please visit their website.

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Photography 101 - How to Understand Camera Aperture and Shutter Speed

Image by Juliana Coutinho via Flickr

An Ezine article original, this is something is worth to be known by beginning photographers like me. Aside from reading books that I borrow from the library or buy from the bookshop, I still manage to sneak in some web reading, and what better way to share the knowledge than to share the same article that I read? So learn with me. Read on...

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Pre-set modes like "Sports" and "Night Portrait" make it easy for us to just point and shoot. If you're new to photography, two of the most important things to learn are aperture and shutter speed settings as these will give you a lot of creative control. If you're not sure which cameras have these types of settings, some compact digital cameras have them but most bridge cameras and all DSLRs have them.

At first it may seem it a little confusing using manual camera settings, but the improvement in the quality of your pictures wil be well worth it.

Photography 101 - Learning About Camera Aperture

The aperture of a camera works a lot like how the iris of a person's eye works. Just like your irises widen or narrow to let in more or less light through the pupils, the camera's lens diaphragm widens or narrows to let in more or less light through the lens. The aperture is the size of this lens opening.

Aperture lets the photographer (or the camera's exposure computer if it's set to automatic) increase or reduce the amount of light that gets through to the sensor, thus helping determine how bright or dark the picture will be.

The aperture also controls the depth of field of the image.

To get a good idea of what this means, make a fist, holding it in front of your eye. Then gradually open your fist. Notice when the opening in your hand is small everything you see is in focus? But when your fist is open wide, the object closest to you is sharper than the background?

A small aperture is good for taking pictures where you want it all in focus, like a landscape.

When you use your camera's Aperture Priority setting you can set the aperture to whatever f-stop number you want. These numbers represent ratios, and the larger the f-stop number, the narrower the aperture. So when the f stop setting is larger on your camera, then there will be a larger depth of field.

The reason for the "Priority" in the setting's name is that when you set the aperture, the camera does its best to set the shutter speed so that the exposure is right (not too dark or too bright). Another way to look at it is, the aperture setting will have priority while the shutter speed plays a secondary role.

Photography 101 - Introducing Shutter Speed

While the aperture controls how much light at one time falls on the image sensor, the shutter speed controls the length of time the camera allows in the light.

If you've ever seen really old pictures, you'll notice that they are rarely smiling. Shutter speeds used to be so slow that people would have to remain very still for several minutes in the early days of photography. No wonder they had such a serious look!

The shutter speeds most commonly used today are 1/500th of a second to 1/60th of a second. The Shutter Priority setting lets you choose speeds (within the camera's range) specifically for the effect you want.

If you use a shutter speed slower than 1/60, you should use a tripod or some type of camera stabilizer because when the shutter is open that long, even the slightest jiggle can create fuzzy pictures.

To freeze action, set the camera's Shutter Priority to a fast speed, which is what Sports mode does. You can be a lot more selective with this manual type of setting. For example, a dog sitting quietly will require a shutter speed of around 1/125 in order to freeze the small twitch in the dog's tail. On the flip side, taking pictures at a soccer game may require up to 1/500 to freeze fast moving actions.

Using manual settings like Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority give you more creative control, which means better pictures that you can display on your wall.

Autumn Lockwood is a writer for Your Picture Frames and loves taking pictures. Shop our online picture frame selection and see our large selection of picture frames in a wide variety of styles, sizes and unique shapes like our decorative round picture frames.

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