Tips from the book: 500 Digital SLR Hints, Tips and Techniques (Part 3)

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I think this will be the final part of my review, and what I can recommend, or to be precise, what I want to remember from that book.

Once again, that is 500 Digital SLR Hints, Tips and Techniques by Chris Weston

Read on...
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from page 54:

Top 10 tips for choosing lenses

• Quality - Always buy the best lenses you can afford. It's better to have less expensive camera body and a quality lens than vice versa.
• Zooms - Zoom lenses provide the greatest flexibility in composition, allowing you to alter the focal length exactly as needed. When choosing a zoom lens, try to avoid extreme zooms (e.g., those that have a very wide range, such as 7-500mm or 28-300mm), as the quality of the optics is compromised by their versatility.
• Primes - While being less versatile than zoom lenses, prime lenses (lenses of a fixed focal length) are generally of better optical quality. With extreme focal lengths, such as very wide-angle lenses and super-telephoto lenses, image quality will be noticeably better when using prime lens.
• AF lenses - Not all auto-focus (AF) lenses are as good as each other. If focusing speed is important to your photography, it's worth testing AF performance before you buy the lens.
• Inside job - Internal focusing enables lenses to be more compact and lightweight in construction than lenses where the barrel extends outward when focusing.
• Aperture - The maximum aperture of the lens will, to some extent, dictate the level of control you have over exposure settings. For example, in low-light conditions with a "slow" lens (a lens with a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or less), you may not be able to attain the shutter speed necessary to freeze motion or capture a sharp image.
• Zoom issues - With some zoom lenses the maximum aperture can vary depending on the focal length set. This system is used to reduce the size and weight of the lens but, again, can limit your options when it comes to setting exposure. If possible, always opt for a zoom lens with a fixed maximum aperture.
• Glass - Lenses that use low dispersion glass help to minimize chromatic aberration, a type of image and color dispersion that occurs when light rays of varying length pass through optical glass. In so doing, they improve sharpness and color correction.
• ALEs - Lenses with Aspherical Lens Elements produce better image quality by eliminating the problem of coma (distortion at the edge of the image) and other types of aberration, particularly prevalent in wide-angle lenses use din conjunction with large aperture.
• Stability - Increasingly, lenses are being produced with some form of optical stabilization. These lenses make hand-holding the camera at slow shutter speeds more practical, and reduce the likelihood of image blur caused by camera shake. They are widely used in sports and wildlife photography.

Metering Modes, and when to use them

• Multi-segment metering - Matrix metering by Nikon, Evaluative metering by Canon and Honeycomb by Minolta. All but referring to multi-segment metering. Takes from many areas around the frame, then average the result. Usage: General-purpose photography or difficult lighting conditions
• Center-weighted metering -usually the subject is occupying the frame large, about 75% or more. Usage: Formal portraits of people and animals; backlit subjects (except silhouettes).
• Spot metering - the camera takes in about 2-3% of the frame only; what to say, it is for precision metering! Usage: Photography of high-contrast scenes or scenes of multiple tones, like landscape photography; critical exposures; assessing the subject brightness range (SBR).
• Manual metering - as it says, this is manual metering. There's help in the camera. An analog meter display in the camera's viewfinder, with 2 arrows pointing and moving right and left. Bar stops at middle, or '0', to say that camera meter reading aligns with the exposure setting as you adjust the aperture and shutter speed. Usage: creative photography that is not governed by the auto or preset settings.

The sunny f/16 rule:

• When taking pictures in bright sunlight, the high level of contrast can sometimes confuse a camera's internal meter. To avoid inaccurate exposures in these conditions, set the lens aperture to f/16 and the shutter speed equivalent to the ISO setting. This is known as the 'sunny f/16 rule," and is remarkably accurate.

The sunny f/22 rule:

• When photographing predominantly white or very light subjects in bright sunlight, a variation of the sunny f/16 rule is the sunny f/22 rule. The process for assessing exposure is the same, except that f/22 is used as the base aperture. By stopping down by one stop, you avoid overexposing the highlights.

When photographing in moonlight:

• When using moonlight as the main light source, set a shutter speed of around 4 min when the moon is full and the sky clear. Double the amount of exposure when the moon is partial. To photograph the moon itself, use a long telephoto lens and set an exposure of around 1/1000 sec @ f/8 with an ISO of 400.

Streaked lighting:

• To create streaks of light from moving cars, set the camera on a tripod, manually focus the lens, and set an exposure of between 10 sec and 20 sec at f/22 (ISO 400). Use the Bulb (Time) setting if necessary, and activate the shutter using a cable release.

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I think that that is all that I want to cover. It doesn’t mean that there are no more that can be derived from the book. On the contrary, there are a ton of useful tips and tricks from that book. What I am saying is that go and grab a copy of it, whether that means buying your own, or borrowing from the library.

Enjoy!

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Macro Lenses and Macro Photography

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While getting a 1:1 (read, almost lifelike size) shot of a flower, a leaf, an insect, or anything for that matter is one area of photography that is so satisfying and gratifying, this trick isn't really that easy, and at times, it can be so frustrating that you would tend to give up sooner than you have begun.


Patience  is a virtue, and it is its own merit already, but applied to photography, and you can come up with those shoots that people will really admire - with no word spoken - but with just plain expressions of "oohhs" and "aahhs".


To help us out with the things in macro photography, here is an Ezine article original. Together, let us learn macro photography. Read on...


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A Beginner's Guide to Macro Photography

Macro photography is a technique which allows photographers to take close-up shots of subjects. Though it once referred exclusively to photography which rendered the subject in life-size on the negative, it has come to encompass almost all magnified photographic techniques. Macro photography differs in many ways from other types of photography: it often requires specialized equipment and it requires that the photographer make a number of special considerations when planning their shots. This brief guide will give you an overview of macro photography techniques.

Macro photography requires some specialized equipment. Most often, this includes macro lenses and extension tubes. The focal length of a macro lens determines the smallest size of the objects it can capture. Focal lengths in the range of 50-60 mm are most often used for product photography or small objects. 90-105 mm lenses are appropriate for insects and flowers. 150-200 mm lenses are most often used for small insect photography. Most of these lenses are 1:1, or 'standard' magnification.

Some macro lenses, however, can achieve up to 5:1 magnification. These are necessary for capturing detail in extremely small objects such as snowflakes and insect eyes. If you don't want to spend the money on a new macro lens, you can use a reversing ring. These rings allow lenses to be attached backwards by attaching to the filter threads on the front of a lens. This allows the lens to be used for macro photography. Oftentimes photos can be taken in up to 4:1 magnification with a reversing ring while still maintaining excellent image quality.

Extension tubes, or bellows, extend the distance between the camera lens and the film or the digital light sensor within the camera. This makes the focusing distance of the camera much shorter, allowing for higher degrees of magnification. This also has the effect of making the image darker for the same aperture settings, a fact which should not be overlooked by the photographer when they are planning their shot.

Another special consideration macro photographers must keep in mind is that the depth of field of macro photographs is very limited. This makes focusing a critical step, as the photographer must determine which element of the subject should be in central focus. Lighting is also a hurdle for new macro photographers to overcome. This is because macro photography setups often leave very little space between the lens and the subject. Telephoto macro lenses are a popular solution for this problem, as they leave considerably more space between the lens and subject. Ring flashes are another solution to this problem. As they attach to the outer edge of the lens, they require very little distance to the subject to properly light them.

Mr. Oliver is a marketing agent of David Proett Photography. The full-service professional photographer provides portraits to capture your most precious moments - weddings, family, baby, and special events large or small. David Proett Photography serves the Richmond Virginia area but will also travel. For more information on their Wedding Photographer Richmond, Virginia please visit their website.

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3 DSLR Accessories - the basics!

One guy said that there are 3 lenses that you need: standard, telephoto, and a macro. I do agree about the first two, but for the third, there are many who disagreed, including me. I may go for a longer telephoto lens if I can. There are quite a number of problems attributed to a macro lens, so while it may be able to come close and give you a 1:1 rendition of your subject, you must be very good in using it to make it really a worthwhile piece of glass in your camera lens kit.


There is one article that I got from eZine, and it is quite an informative one, but it is not on the glasses that you should have. It is the accessories that you should have. Read on...

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3 Digital Camera Accessories Every Photographer Needs

There is a misnomer that digital photography is its own form of photography, quite untrue. The digital part of photography is just the method of recording so what applies to photography applies to digital as well. So let's take a look at the three accessories I think that every photographer needs.

These aren't listed in any particular order and I don't think in any order of importance either although if you were to push me for an answer I would place a tripod as my number one accessory. It will also depend on what type of photography you are pursuing as to which one will be number one to you. They are, however, accessories that I would list as essential to a photographer's gear bag.

1. A tripod

If you don't already have a tripod then get yourself one. Buy the most expensive one you can afford. A good solid tripod is essential to the kit of a photographer. There are many occasions when light conditions aren't good and the extra stability helps you create crisp, sharp images. Just a little camera shake will cause blurring to some degree in the final photo. A tripod is especially useful when shooting close-ups of flowers and small creatures and helps you to have complete control of your images.

2. Remote shutter release

This is coupled with the tripod and is essential when avoiding camera shake. Even when your camera is mounted on the tripod, the simplest action like pushing the shutter button can still cause camera shake and prevent you from taking the sharpest images. It works very simply either connected by a cable to the camera or using an infrared connection to activate the shutter.

3. A good circular polarising filter

A polarising filter cuts down glare and reflections off shiny surfaces. Those of you who have ever owned or used a pair of polaroid sunglasses will know the effect that it has on shiny and reflective surfaces. This includes foliage as well. When using polaroid sunglasses while looking at water you are able to see below the surface if the water is clear. The sky becomes bluer and the green vegetation greener. If you are landscape photographer you will really benefit from a polariser. I consider this essential. One tip though is that you should always use one that has the equivalent or higher quality of your lens. There is no point in putting bad glass in front of good glass.

Remember that these are my three top choices of accessories in no particular order. You need to choose which ones will serve your particular needs the best. I use all three equally but maybe if my photography changed slightly I would add another one or two to my list. Happy shooting!

Do you want to learn more about photography in a digital world? I've just completed a brand new e-course delivered by e-mail. Download it here for free by clicking here:  http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/ To learn how you can take your photography from ordinary to outstanding click here - http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/21steps.htm

Wayne Turner has been teaching photography for 25 years and has written three books on photography.

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I have the 1st and 2nd, but not the 3rd; I'm currently on the lookout for it. Any idea? That would be great!

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You basically need only 2 lenses - for a start

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I got a tip from a subscription mail on digital photography, which says that you need 3 lenses, basically. But I think I will disagree.

I am a beginner in photography, but my exposure to photography dates back to my father, which dates back to his father, my grandfather. To what extent were they in photography? My grandfather has his own darkroom.

Does that say anything that matters to this discussion? But on my own, I am a beginner in DSLR photography. You may want to read on my history in photography.

I say that you only need two lenses: standard (18-70mm) + telephoto, and that would usually be a medium telephoto lens (up to 200mm).

However, as much as I wanted to defend my stand, I would just give some guide on what these lenses are. Get this one thing straight. photography, especially the emerging practice in DSLR photography, has no hard and fast rule. Everything depended on the photographer's understanding and skill, and his 'taste' or 'discretion'.

What is common or invariable, are those hardwares, those camera units, lenses and additional gadgets. It becomes like software programming then, where the same software is used, but a different approach is applied from programmer to programmer.

So with all those person-dependent differences, allow me to present to you an Ezine article original, telling all about the different lenses.

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A Guide to Types of Camera Lenses

Different types of camera lenses are suited for different activities. Do you need a telephoto lens to capture photos
from a long distance? How about a macro lens for close-up photography? Familiarize yourself with popular camera lenses so you can determine which are best for your photography applications.

Wide-angle

Wide-angle camera lenses are ideal for shooting interiors, landscapes and large gatherings. The important thing to look at when shopping for wide-angle camera lenses is the uniform quality of the shot. If you're looking at a wide-angle lens with a crystal-clear center and blurring around the edges, keep on looking. You may also encounter Spherical Aberration, or wide-angle distortion of your images. If you can't afford a quality wide-angle lens that avoids these effects, hold off making a purchase and save your money until you're able to get the quality lens you need.

Telephoto

Telephoto camera lenses may be the most difficult type of camera lens to purchase. Telephoto lenses are typically the most expensive, as the quality of the glass makes a big difference in long-range applications. Typical uses for telephoto lenses include sporting events, landscape features and animals in nature. The longer the telephoto lens, the larger the aperture should be, so look for proportional length and aperture width when shopping for telephoto camera lenses. Because longer telephoto lenses require more glass, lengthier lenses are significantly more expensive than shorter lenses.

Zoom

Unlike a fixed-focal-length lens, a zoom lens gives you the option of shooting subjects both near and far. Zoom camera lenses suffer a slight loss in quality over fixed-length lenses but make up for the difference in quality by their usefulness in different applications. If you're trying to quickly shoot subjects at different ranges, such as a moving object, you may not have time to change fixed-length lenses as the subject comes closer to you or moves away. Zoom lenses give you the ability to keep a moving subject in frame and are good choices if you need a versatile lens for a moving subjects or a variety of applications.

Standard

While standard camera lenses may seem to be unnecessary in light of specific lenses for different applications, in reality, the opposite is true. Standard lenses require you to think more about the shot you're planning and move to get a good angle and distance, but they take quality pictures and the process involved helps you learn to compose better shots. An advanced photographer can use a good standard lens for a variety of applications, where a novice photographer may feel the need for specialized lenses for each application.

Macro

A macro camera lens is designed for extremely close-up photography at short range. Macro lenses aren't good at capturing close-up shots from far away, like a telephoto lens, but are instead designed for the photographer to be close to the subject. Macro lenses are ideal for nature photography, photographing collectibles and science photography.

For more information on SLR cameras, visit the hobbies section of Life123.com.

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Have you found which one to use now?

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Before I bought my DSLR...

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When I started considering the purchase of a DSLR unit, which means an upgrade from my use of a compact point-and-shoot digital camera, I made it a point to do a thorough check. Basically since the price of an average DSLR camera is not something that can be joked about. Who's to throw away a thousand dollars or something nowadays?

So around August 2009 timeframe, I started visiting review sites and reading on brochures, looking out for promotional items posted on dailies, store fliers, etc., etc. That was when I was introduced to the world of the digital photography through the use of DSLR. I read the specs of the units, and along with the step-by-step learning of the terminologies of the technical aspects of the DSLR, as well as the layman terms, I was reviewing the very small knowledge about snalog SLR cameras that I had from long time ago.

After that exercise, I frequented the store nearest my office, which is just at the mall along the way to my home - where our shuttle bus usually drops us off. I started conversing with the salesmen, befriending them in the process, a 10- to 15-min visit every other day or so, and trying to get a feel by getting a hands-on of the camera units - up close and personal.

I got the package I was waiting for - a Nikon D5000 that has a twin lens kit, a short glass 918- to 55-mm) and a medium telephoto 955- to 200-mm) glass, and a ton of other freebies. The price, if something to be thought of, as I would discover, is just the same as offered in other stores, but of course, without the freebies. The freebies made all the difference, if, when bought separately, would be about 30% of the price of the promotional package.

Of course, not everyone would agree to my liking or have the same taste or preference as me. So whenever I see other brands of DSLR coming into view (like when we have occasions or events) where a handful of photographers come around to do shoots, be they beginners or not, i don't close my mind to considering the other brand. My analog SLR was a Canon, which I passed down to my sister. Bought in 1998, it was still in good condition 12 years later. I just didn't know anything about photography then, or, should I say, wasn't that much considering photography as a hobby.

Things are different now, 12 years later. Having 4 daughters should be enough reason for me to get into the art of photography. The skills can be used not only for hobby purposes, but for livelihood as well. For who can tell what's in the future? Only that we have to be prepared, and what better way to do something that is of your interest?

In my family, it is a long line already...

My grandfather owned a darkroom.

My father bought a number of those cameras in the 1960s, and I remember using those 'boxes' which you have to open up on top, see the view, then take a picture. I even burned the front lens of one of the units - I mean, as a child, we are so curious - to the point of causing some irreversible damages to who knows what?

But the one thing that I liked that my father did was to spruce up my sister's 8x10 black-and-white picture with a very subtle oil paint. Hey, that is Photoshop the manual way!

I guess that if Photoshop were that thing of the past, he would be one of those very early users of this software...

One thing I got from his vault is a 1965 metallic tripod. Not a very sturdy one, a lightweight, and still useable tripod. Still shiny, still rugged. Older than me, but still working.

Hopefully, today's DSLRs can be passed down to our next generation, just like the olden days' camera units.

But then again, that remains to be seen...

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