It's 2012, and what has been in my photography journey

Image via Wikipedia03-Jan-2012

For so long a time that I haven't posted, here's a quick update, as much as I can remember:

Dec-2012, I attended a basic photography workshop, provided for free by NTUC, which I am a member of, and as it turned out, it isn't so basic after all. And many of the attendants aren't starters as well. Just to see what is offered, and to see what can be offered afterwards.

Of course, there are those participants who really are beginners, and since the topic, the discussions, as far as I can tell, is somewhere between beginner-intermediate to intermediate-advance, many are lost!

But it still is a good offering, and while it was drizzling when the class ended, which signalled the start of hands-on, snapping pictures here and there and applying what has been taught, we waited a while, some of us, not all, and the rest, well, they just went on their way, perhaps to practice on their own.

One of the not-so-beginner attendees has been doing photography for the last 8 years or so, and he was showing his 'works', using his iPhone, which are all stored online through Flickr. That got me into creating my own profile in Flickr, which I have known for some time already, but never bothered to see what's in there... but now I do.

You see, as much as I can tell, I like doing nature photography, so I should be getting a macro lens. I like leaves and flowers, and I am getting better learning to use the tripod for a clear and sharp photographs of small objects, using my 55-200mm lens zoomed out all the way, so they appear bigger and closer to the naked eye, especially when viewed on the computer.

Then, I did the photoshoot of our department's Christmas party 2 weeks after the photography workshop, and I can tell that I have to improve on my skills for snapping moving objects, moving people, candid shots, 'live' pictures.

And I go about asking people on how they take this kind of photograph, what setting, etc., and not just reading books. I now freely take my camera out, and snap pictures here and there, and I don't limit myself to using the dSLR anymore, but I snap pictures using my handphone as well. There's a wealth of resources out in the open for photographers to utilize nowadays, not just the 'official' camera units we call dSLRs, be they entry-level, mid-level or pro-level. But there's always the good and bad to it.

Anyway, what got me even more snapping pictures is when the second batch of photos i uploaded to Flickr got the attention of one professional photographer. Sure, it's not actually a price-winning photograph, but it one that is candid, and one that tells me there's the right frame at the right time, at the right setting, and it doesn't have to be a professional or seasoned photographer, just a willing individual who takes the camera out and snaps pictures - and not stopping afterwards to rest on his 'laurels' - but continues on - to his journey in photography.

Till then!

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Macro Lenses and Macro Photography

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While getting a 1:1 (read, almost lifelike size) shot of a flower, a leaf, an insect, or anything for that matter is one area of photography that is so satisfying and gratifying, this trick isn't really that easy, and at times, it can be so frustrating that you would tend to give up sooner than you have begun.


Patience  is a virtue, and it is its own merit already, but applied to photography, and you can come up with those shoots that people will really admire - with no word spoken - but with just plain expressions of "oohhs" and "aahhs".


To help us out with the things in macro photography, here is an Ezine article original. Together, let us learn macro photography. Read on...


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A Beginner's Guide to Macro Photography

Macro photography is a technique which allows photographers to take close-up shots of subjects. Though it once referred exclusively to photography which rendered the subject in life-size on the negative, it has come to encompass almost all magnified photographic techniques. Macro photography differs in many ways from other types of photography: it often requires specialized equipment and it requires that the photographer make a number of special considerations when planning their shots. This brief guide will give you an overview of macro photography techniques.

Macro photography requires some specialized equipment. Most often, this includes macro lenses and extension tubes. The focal length of a macro lens determines the smallest size of the objects it can capture. Focal lengths in the range of 50-60 mm are most often used for product photography or small objects. 90-105 mm lenses are appropriate for insects and flowers. 150-200 mm lenses are most often used for small insect photography. Most of these lenses are 1:1, or 'standard' magnification.

Some macro lenses, however, can achieve up to 5:1 magnification. These are necessary for capturing detail in extremely small objects such as snowflakes and insect eyes. If you don't want to spend the money on a new macro lens, you can use a reversing ring. These rings allow lenses to be attached backwards by attaching to the filter threads on the front of a lens. This allows the lens to be used for macro photography. Oftentimes photos can be taken in up to 4:1 magnification with a reversing ring while still maintaining excellent image quality.

Extension tubes, or bellows, extend the distance between the camera lens and the film or the digital light sensor within the camera. This makes the focusing distance of the camera much shorter, allowing for higher degrees of magnification. This also has the effect of making the image darker for the same aperture settings, a fact which should not be overlooked by the photographer when they are planning their shot.

Another special consideration macro photographers must keep in mind is that the depth of field of macro photographs is very limited. This makes focusing a critical step, as the photographer must determine which element of the subject should be in central focus. Lighting is also a hurdle for new macro photographers to overcome. This is because macro photography setups often leave very little space between the lens and the subject. Telephoto macro lenses are a popular solution for this problem, as they leave considerably more space between the lens and subject. Ring flashes are another solution to this problem. As they attach to the outer edge of the lens, they require very little distance to the subject to properly light them.

Mr. Oliver is a marketing agent of David Proett Photography. The full-service professional photographer provides portraits to capture your most precious moments - weddings, family, baby, and special events large or small. David Proett Photography serves the Richmond Virginia area but will also travel. For more information on their Wedding Photographer Richmond, Virginia please visit their website.

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3 DSLR Accessories - the basics!

One guy said that there are 3 lenses that you need: standard, telephoto, and a macro. I do agree about the first two, but for the third, there are many who disagreed, including me. I may go for a longer telephoto lens if I can. There are quite a number of problems attributed to a macro lens, so while it may be able to come close and give you a 1:1 rendition of your subject, you must be very good in using it to make it really a worthwhile piece of glass in your camera lens kit.


There is one article that I got from eZine, and it is quite an informative one, but it is not on the glasses that you should have. It is the accessories that you should have. Read on...

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3 Digital Camera Accessories Every Photographer Needs

There is a misnomer that digital photography is its own form of photography, quite untrue. The digital part of photography is just the method of recording so what applies to photography applies to digital as well. So let's take a look at the three accessories I think that every photographer needs.

These aren't listed in any particular order and I don't think in any order of importance either although if you were to push me for an answer I would place a tripod as my number one accessory. It will also depend on what type of photography you are pursuing as to which one will be number one to you. They are, however, accessories that I would list as essential to a photographer's gear bag.

1. A tripod

If you don't already have a tripod then get yourself one. Buy the most expensive one you can afford. A good solid tripod is essential to the kit of a photographer. There are many occasions when light conditions aren't good and the extra stability helps you create crisp, sharp images. Just a little camera shake will cause blurring to some degree in the final photo. A tripod is especially useful when shooting close-ups of flowers and small creatures and helps you to have complete control of your images.

2. Remote shutter release

This is coupled with the tripod and is essential when avoiding camera shake. Even when your camera is mounted on the tripod, the simplest action like pushing the shutter button can still cause camera shake and prevent you from taking the sharpest images. It works very simply either connected by a cable to the camera or using an infrared connection to activate the shutter.

3. A good circular polarising filter

A polarising filter cuts down glare and reflections off shiny surfaces. Those of you who have ever owned or used a pair of polaroid sunglasses will know the effect that it has on shiny and reflective surfaces. This includes foliage as well. When using polaroid sunglasses while looking at water you are able to see below the surface if the water is clear. The sky becomes bluer and the green vegetation greener. If you are landscape photographer you will really benefit from a polariser. I consider this essential. One tip though is that you should always use one that has the equivalent or higher quality of your lens. There is no point in putting bad glass in front of good glass.

Remember that these are my three top choices of accessories in no particular order. You need to choose which ones will serve your particular needs the best. I use all three equally but maybe if my photography changed slightly I would add another one or two to my list. Happy shooting!

Do you want to learn more about photography in a digital world? I've just completed a brand new e-course delivered by e-mail. Download it here for free by clicking here:  http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/ To learn how you can take your photography from ordinary to outstanding click here - http://www.21steps2perfectphotos.com/21steps.htm

Wayne Turner has been teaching photography for 25 years and has written three books on photography.

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I have the 1st and 2nd, but not the 3rd; I'm currently on the lookout for it. Any idea? That would be great!

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You basically need only 2 lenses - for a start

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I got a tip from a subscription mail on digital photography, which says that you need 3 lenses, basically. But I think I will disagree.

I am a beginner in photography, but my exposure to photography dates back to my father, which dates back to his father, my grandfather. To what extent were they in photography? My grandfather has his own darkroom.

Does that say anything that matters to this discussion? But on my own, I am a beginner in DSLR photography. You may want to read on my history in photography.

I say that you only need two lenses: standard (18-70mm) + telephoto, and that would usually be a medium telephoto lens (up to 200mm).

However, as much as I wanted to defend my stand, I would just give some guide on what these lenses are. Get this one thing straight. photography, especially the emerging practice in DSLR photography, has no hard and fast rule. Everything depended on the photographer's understanding and skill, and his 'taste' or 'discretion'.

What is common or invariable, are those hardwares, those camera units, lenses and additional gadgets. It becomes like software programming then, where the same software is used, but a different approach is applied from programmer to programmer.

So with all those person-dependent differences, allow me to present to you an Ezine article original, telling all about the different lenses.

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A Guide to Types of Camera Lenses

Different types of camera lenses are suited for different activities. Do you need a telephoto lens to capture photos
from a long distance? How about a macro lens for close-up photography? Familiarize yourself with popular camera lenses so you can determine which are best for your photography applications.

Wide-angle

Wide-angle camera lenses are ideal for shooting interiors, landscapes and large gatherings. The important thing to look at when shopping for wide-angle camera lenses is the uniform quality of the shot. If you're looking at a wide-angle lens with a crystal-clear center and blurring around the edges, keep on looking. You may also encounter Spherical Aberration, or wide-angle distortion of your images. If you can't afford a quality wide-angle lens that avoids these effects, hold off making a purchase and save your money until you're able to get the quality lens you need.

Telephoto

Telephoto camera lenses may be the most difficult type of camera lens to purchase. Telephoto lenses are typically the most expensive, as the quality of the glass makes a big difference in long-range applications. Typical uses for telephoto lenses include sporting events, landscape features and animals in nature. The longer the telephoto lens, the larger the aperture should be, so look for proportional length and aperture width when shopping for telephoto camera lenses. Because longer telephoto lenses require more glass, lengthier lenses are significantly more expensive than shorter lenses.

Zoom

Unlike a fixed-focal-length lens, a zoom lens gives you the option of shooting subjects both near and far. Zoom camera lenses suffer a slight loss in quality over fixed-length lenses but make up for the difference in quality by their usefulness in different applications. If you're trying to quickly shoot subjects at different ranges, such as a moving object, you may not have time to change fixed-length lenses as the subject comes closer to you or moves away. Zoom lenses give you the ability to keep a moving subject in frame and are good choices if you need a versatile lens for a moving subjects or a variety of applications.

Standard

While standard camera lenses may seem to be unnecessary in light of specific lenses for different applications, in reality, the opposite is true. Standard lenses require you to think more about the shot you're planning and move to get a good angle and distance, but they take quality pictures and the process involved helps you learn to compose better shots. An advanced photographer can use a good standard lens for a variety of applications, where a novice photographer may feel the need for specialized lenses for each application.

Macro

A macro camera lens is designed for extremely close-up photography at short range. Macro lenses aren't good at capturing close-up shots from far away, like a telephoto lens, but are instead designed for the photographer to be close to the subject. Macro lenses are ideal for nature photography, photographing collectibles and science photography.

For more information on SLR cameras, visit the hobbies section of Life123.com.

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Have you found which one to use now?

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Some Tips from the book (Part 1): 500 Digital SLR Hints, Tips and Techniques

As I have finished the book, and I am now due to return it to the library, I’d take note of some of the hints, tips and techniques that I think would matter to beginners in the DSLR photography world.

1. Time and Date: set your camera’s time and date to follow the time zone you are in, which makes most sense when you are travelling. Reset when you come back.
2. Do a full charge of your battery. If ever being tempted to immediately use your camera right out of the box, hold your horses. The beneficial impact will be realized in the long(-er) run.
3. Battery life. Keep your battery warm. Keep it close to your body when shooting in cold places. That way they won’t be discharged fast. And always follow the battery usage instructions closely to extend their life.
4. Switch off unused features. Turn off any features that you don’t necessarily need, such as the automatic preview function. This will help maximize the battery’s life.
5. Conserve power. Another way to conserve battery power on lengthy shoots is to switch off the camera when it is not in use.
6. Memory devices: size does matter. The trade-off between bigger size is the risk of losing all photos all at the same time, and the other one is a frequent change during shoots. Knowing the pros and cons, the choice is all yours to make.
7. Photo file type. Professional photographers usually use RAW file type, while beginning photographers settle for JPEG or TIFF, and the likes. Some go for both. JPEG usually gives you more room for more photos, while RAW gives you more freedom and flexibility when doing photo editing. Your level and need should dictate your choice.
8. Photo size. The print size is what usually mandates which photo file size you are using. Other than that, it is the usage, such as in the web, where at the sacrifice of clearer pictures (when enlarged), smaller files are easier to upload and download.
9. Microdrive, SD and CompactFlash. Microdrive is utilizing mechanical parts, while SD and CF cards are all solid-state devices. Mechanical parts are prone to wear and tear; that will make SD and CF cards more reliable. Do take note, however, that these are not faultless devices.
10. SD and CF Cards Class. If you have a choice, and if you can afford it, go for the higher class rating of these cards, especially if your interest in photography requires speed. The higher class rating means a higher speed in reading/writing on the cards. Besides, DSLR photography hobbyists shouldn’t be overly stingy.
11. Format before use. When using your memory card for the first time, make sure to format it.
12. X-ray machines. Memory cards are not affected by x-ray machines, so that should not be your worry when passing through the airport scanners, even the powerful ones.
13. Review only what you need to. Turn off that auto-review function. Check only what you need to check. That will help conserve the battery life.
14. Review using zoom. The small LCD screen will easily fool you into ‘seeing’ that the picture taken is already tack sharp, but that isn’t always the case. Zoom in 2 to 3 levels, and you’ll know the real score.
15. What you see isn’t really what you get. Don’t think that the LCD display is your final viewing screen. It is always wise to do your final edits using computers.
16. Watch the highlights. Check if any part of the picture is burned out, so you can retake if necessary, unless that section is the sun, or any other bright source – which is a valid burn out.
17. Use the histogram. Check that none of the highlights that you wanted in the photo is missing by using the histogram. No matter how powerful or complex your photo editor is, it simply can’t recover what isn’t there.
18. Delete as you shoot. When a picture is poorly composed, better have it deleted. Keep only those that counts. You’ll be saving yourself time to clean-up later. Also, you’ll be surprised ‘how good’ your pictures are!
19. When to use single-frame advance. Stationary objects, such as still life, certain forms of macro photography, and landscapes, rarely require multiple-frame advances. Set the shooting mode to single frame.
20. When to use continuous-frame advance. If your subject is moving or in a dynamic environment, such as during a high-speed sporting event, then selecting continuous-frame advance will help to ensure that you don’t miss any of the action.
21. Photographing people. Apply these settings when shooting people (if they apply to your camera):

• Color space = sRGB (natural skin tones)
• Sharpening = normal (medium level)
• Tone = normal (medium level) in  average light, or slightly less than normal in bright conditions.

To be continued…

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